All eyes will be on London and the Old Truman Brewery come July 26 and 27, as the UK’s premium menswear show returns to town, along with the introduction of some women’s collections too. Here’s some key brands to look out for this time.
After seven years designing women’s haute couture and prêt-à-porter, Maxime Simoens decided to open up a new chapter of his career – launching menswear in 2016. The outcome is M.X Paris, a men’s-only premium prêt-à-porter brand, featuring sporty, ultra-contemporary clothes for the modern man about town. The highlight of each piece is the beautiful craftsmanship, especially brought to the hardware., including the attention paid to the rivets, buttons and fastenings, as well as the details of the stitching in the form of ‘X’. Everything is well thought through to enhance the M.X Paris branding story.
Swimwear straight out of Ibiza, Podenco Eivissa is a firm favourite on the beaches of the hedonistic Balearic island. For s/s 18, the brand has upped its game, introducing bright colours and prints which reflect the bohemian fun and frivolity of Ibiza. The collection features a light new colour palette of aqua blues, inspired by the island’s shores, dusty pinks from the flamingos scattered across the salt flats, clusters of lilac found in the lavender nestled along the mountain edges, and bright lemon yellows from the fruit trees that grace the island standing tall for summer. There’s palm leaf designs, polka dots, stripes and the Podenco hound design which features on the brand’s logo. More new additions to the s/s 18 collection include a collection of towelling polos in a pastel colour palette, accompanied by a set of fresh printed summer shirts.
Santa Cruz has been an industry-leading manufacturer of board sports lifestyle hardware and apparel for over 40 years. Established in 1973, Santa Cruz defined a generation with eye-popping graphics and innovative products that resonated with tastemakers, pro-riders and younger generations alike. Through the visions of legendary artist Jim Phillips, the Santa Cruz graphics have become some of the most iconic and recognisable in board sports history. Located south of San Francisco, along the coast of Monterey Bay Sanctuary, Santa Cruz is a Mecca for skate and surf culture. Specialising in casual skate-driven streetwear, Santa Cruz’s extensive product line ranges from classic cut heavy hooded sweats and graphic tees, through to plaid shirting and walk-shorts. For s/s 18, it is introducing some subtler elements to the line, with smaller embroidered embellishments. The Santa Cruz Black Collection is driven by a strong monochrome colour palette, twinned with graphic content with a darker edge. Visuals for this theme tend to be born out of the ‘kustom kulture’ scene, with tattoo art prominent.
CUISSE DE GRENOUILLE
Cuisse de Grenouille sources its design inspirations from the 1960s, giving vintage looks a modern makeover. The brand was founded by two brothers, Lucas and Severin, Parisians with a fondness for the 1960s ‘gentlemen surfers’ look. Their first collection of board shorts came in 2010, with the fabrics and fit being key to their initial success. Season after season, Cuisse de Grenouille has developed its offer, and today has a total wardrobe look. Recently Cuisse de Grenouille launched its first women’s collection, in line with the men’s looks, and it now aspires to develop its international exposure. More than a clothing brand, Cuisse de Grenouille provides a whole lifestyle, incorporating books and surfboards.
Founded by husband and wife team Jim and Chloe Read, Newgate is renowned for its innovative, design-led timepieces. The destination brand, which began with an iconic clock collection over 25 years ago, has taken inspiration from its archives, launching a comprehensive unisex watch collection that celebrates the very best of British design whist catering to the modern sartorial appetite. Combining clean radial shapes and understated components with the brand’s signature high performance materials, the collection is a celebration of the best in contemporary design, exemplifying an ongoing commitment to quality and innovation. Launching exclusively at Jacket Required is the Torpedo Drumline. Designed in the UK, the Torpedo watch has been crafted in a durable 40mm 316 surgical grade stainless steel cylinder case, available in a variety of timeless colourways including all black and spun steel aviator dial, completed with Italian leather or utilitarian canvas strap.
M.C. Overalls was founded by three young brothers, Myer Cooper, Morris Copper and Louis Maister, in 1908. As self-taught tailors at just 15 years old, they began crafting hand embroidered waistcoats, later opening two East London factories to make surplus uniforms for the British Army in WWII and evolving into artisan clothing offering denim jackets, trousers and a variety of specialist trade overalls that later became known as M.C. Overalls. Despite its rich history, M.C.Overalls is not a heritage brand that references the past. It’s about making clothing relevant for a modern workforce. The intention is to offer a ‘uniform’ for craftspeople and creative pioneers. The collection comprises core staples of sweatpants and sweatshirts, and a signature overall in different colourways, adding styles and accessories as seasonal ‘pinnacle’ pieces.
Since its founding in 2004, J Brand has been at the forefront of luxury denim. The company was one of the original premium Los Angeles denim brands, starting a trend that continues to this day. J Brand’s products are handmade, using fabrics sourced in Italy and Japan. For s/s 18, the brand is continuing with its hugely successful EU Core range, sitting alongside the bigger seasonal collections. A never out of stock service, it’s made up of six strong washes, available in four fits; straight, slim, taper and skinny. J Brand is about to deliver a new fabrication into Europe for a/w 17, called French Terry. It’s a woven loop back dobby weave, that looks like a denim jean but feels like a sweat-pant to wear.
Paratus is a new men’s accessories brand launching for s/s 18. After a career designing footwear and accessories with companies such as Supreme, Paul Smith and Barbour, designer Tom Fenning decided to create Paratus to provide sophisticated, well-crafted, functional and accessible products for young professionals who appreciate the same level of detail and quality. Fenning felt that the combination of the streetwear and luxury goods sector was ripe with inspiration for new products, combining the youthful innovation of skate inspired culture with the quality and craftsmanship associated with luxury goods. The first collection has a military inspired theme, drawing on the clean and functional lines and details of military designs. Camouflage, olive and navy full-grain leathers are used across a range of backpacks, tote bags, wallets and belts.
Making its Jacket Required debut from the USA, Cole Haan is a iconic American footwear brand that is now offering up much more a fashion forward offer. For s/s 18, the GrandPro design eliminates all of the unnecessary weight of traditional court shoes, without sacrificing flexibility, cushioning or ergonomics. The result is an extremely light shoe that’s a joy to wear, available in burnished and hand-stained leather. Meanwhile, the lightweight, laceless ZeroGrand Stitchlite Wingtip Oxford features an on-trend knitted upper for maximum flexibility and breathability and offers a sock-like fit. This wear-with-anything design covers all the bases, and is in contrast with Cole Haan’s more traditional wingtips and other classics.