Fortezza da Basso, Florence • 13-16 June 2017
With a new layout to the show, an increase in exhibition space to accommodate further growth, and innovative features and events, the s/s 18 edition of Pitti Uomo is set to be one of its most inspiring yet. MWB discovers why the Italian show is the must-visit this June.
With the January edition of Pitti Uomo attracting over 30,000 visitors, it is clear to see why Florence remains one of the leading trade shows on the international buying calendar. Spanning 60,000 sq m, with a brand new floor plan and extended exhibition space to react to further growth, this coming summer will see Pitti Uomo 92 return with a comprehensive programme of special events and an inspiring line-up of premium menswear, accessories, footwear and grooming.
Reinvention is key to the s/s 18 as the exhibition unveils its new theme – Boom, Pitti Blooms – focusing on the energy and beauty in flowers. With layout and creative direction by Sergio Colantuoni, the look of the fair itself is designed to excite and inspire with chromatic contrasts on façades, spaces and objects and sculptures throughout the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso.
Categorised into 15 unique areas, including Make, Pop Up Stores, Born in the USA, I Play and My Factory, visitors will be able to view over 1,220 collections, 540 of which are international brands from countries such as the UK, Denmark, Japan, France and the US.
The Guest Nation, for example, will focus on the talents of Australia this season – a project in collaboration with Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery and The Woolmark Company, which will see eight designers present their collections in the Spazio Carra area, located on the lower level of the Main Pavilion. In conjunction with the Australian Fashion Chamber, it is the first time that a project of this entity has involved Australian designers – including Chris Ran Lin, Sener Besim and P.E Nation – in an international fashion event.
The Tokyo Fashion Award, meanwhile, focuses on the new talents of Japanese fashion design. Thanks to the close relationship between Pitti Immagine and the award, the collections of six up-and-coming brands from Japan will be on view at the Fortezza, with a dedicated corner inside the Unconventional area at the Archivi. The participating designers on show include Bed J.W. Ford, Chika Kisada, Doublet, Roggykei, Taakk and Yohei Ohno.
The Unconventional area itself will expand this season, doubling its current exhibition space to focus on luxury underground fashion styles, primarily the trend for athleisure and a contemporary, gender-neutral wardrobe.
Further developments at Pitti Uomo will see the relaunch of MAKE, a section within the show that maximises the rediscovery of artisan craftsmanship. Strategically shown for the first time in the Sala della Ronda, visitors can expect to see a new generation of names such as Ateliers Auguste, Bravur Watches, Casablanca 1942, Lamler, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear and Title of Work.
Within Pitti Uomo’s comprehensive programme of events, the ninth edition of ‘Who is on Next? Uomo’ will take place during the show to celebrate and award new menswear fashion talents, in collaboration between Pitti Immagine Uomo, Alta Roma and L’Uomo Vogue. Finalists include Bad Deal, Magliano, matteo lamandini, Milano 140, Omar and SELFMADE by Gianfranco Villegas.
Freshness continues throughout the show as Alanui – a nomad-chic style project launched by Nicolo and Charlotta Oddi – will make its debut, showcasing a special site-specific installation on the morning of 15 June within the Roster Tepidarium, designed to engage and inspire buyers.
Premium footwear designer, Christian Louboutin, meanwhile, will present a surprising special event, involving not only the fashion community, but the city of Florence itself.
Finally, visitors to the fair will be able to continue business in a digital form following the four-day event with e-Pitti.com running online from 26 June – 27 August.
The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion at Palazzo Pitti
On Tuesday 13 June, Il Museo Effimero della Moda (‘The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion’), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera will be inaugurated at Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition. which is open until 22 October, is the second episode in a three-year program promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi and is curated by Olivier Saillard (pictured) in collaboration with Caterina Chiarelli.
The Special Guest of Pitti Uomo 92, J.W. Anderson has become established as an internationally recognised fashion brand thanks to the creativity and eclecticism expressed by the designer from Northern Ireland. His collections are famed for being unique in their quality of manufacturing and their reinterpretation of today’s youth culture and art scene. On the evening of Wednesday 14 June, at Villa La Pietra, J.W. Anderson will present his s/s 18 men’s collection in Italy for the first time.
Hugo Boss, the most fashion-forward line within the Hugo Boss brand, makes its debut at Pitti Uomo as the show’s Special Guest for s/s 18. On the evening of Tuesday 13 June, at the Manifattura Tabacchi, the Hugo collection will be presented with a special fashion show combining both menswear and womenswear.
Designer Federico Curradi returns to Pitti Uomo to present the premiere of the s/s 18 menswear collection of the brand that carries his name, with a special event on the morning of Wednesday 14 June at the Museo Bardini. On stage will be a “romantic warrior who encompasses various souls of Florence, including craftsmanship and calico storico (historical football).”
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh
A mixture of fashion and streetwear, Virgil Abloh (pictured) has transformed his own lifestyle into a successful brand, leading Off-White to full stylistic maturity without losing its initial capacity to shock and surprise. Guests will be invited to view the Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh collection on the evening of Thursday 15 June, presenting its s/s 18 menswear collection alongside a selection of the women’s pre-collection.